Samsung Galaxy S20 Plus - Hands-On PRO MODE TUTORIAL - Galaxy User Guide

All right, galaxy, s20, hands-on photo pro mode tutorial. This is what it looks like when you start it up so come to more and then top left corner pro. If you plan on doing post production work, save raw copies definitely. If you don't, they just take up space on the sd card. So pretty tiny sensor, small lens elements really hard to correct for distortion, so ultra white shape correction. It's like lens compensation inside your mirrorless camera, for example, makes sense to have that turned on now rare video size 4k. Although this does 8k I'm a proponent of 4k front video, 4k advanced, recording options, hdr 10 plus the hdr standard isn't supported by every screen out there.

You have to have dedicated screens for that to work, but even if you don't have those, you're going to get a bit more dynamic range out of your images or videos, so we're using it. Zoom in mic nonsense use an external microphone if you zoom it just increases the gain on the microphone. Doesn't sound good video stabilization if you do a lot of handheld stuff stabilization, it's a good thing tracking autofocus we'll come to that later. Now the picture as previewed makes sense gridlines. I would definitely turn that on it's a rule of thirds grid just helps in composing your shots, location tags. Voice control for stills can be a nice option for video, definitely not a floating shutter button.

Sometimes it's handy if you rigged the smartphone for whatever reason and you can't really touch the actual shutter button, then a floating shutter button is really awesome, but as a standard I wouldn't turn it on show palm nah, that's just weird shooting methods, press the volume key to take pictures or record video. That makes a lot of sense because if you hold the phone like this it's like a shutter release on top, you can have both hands on the phone making sure the framing is right and then just go boop and you're done. When it comes to lens choices, the s20 got three different ones: super wide and telly to access them from within the video or the photo pro mode. For example, we have to open and close via thumb and index finger and then we get different options.

The super wide angle we don't have at our surface is then 4x or really anything above 2x digital. 4X is in good lighting conditions, sometimes still usable, like 10x, you can see the degradation and image quality because it is purely digital. Personally, I can recommend using the white and the tele option. We can't use it not within the standard camera app. Unfortunately, if you want to use the super wide angle during video, you have to rely on third-party apps like filmic pro or video pro, and there we go. There is the super wide angle in filmic pro. Why isn't it available in the standard camera app samsung? It's obviously possible. It is super wide angle, not in photo pro mode, not in video pro mode only wide and tally.

Let's start the top left corner autofocus area, two options center and multi-tasking. Obviously, the face recognition kicks in as well as the main difference, multi-auto focus area is way bigger than the autofocus area sends. Now when is the autofocus area useful, for example, let's say the dark knight and the duck want to fight Ryu and you want the focus to be on Ryu. The street fighter in the back multi-autofocus area won't allow you to do that because it's too big, it's always going to catch either the dark knight or the duck. Now a center autofocus area is really tiny and in the middle and there you go ryu is in focus no visual confirmation via any overlays like the little rectangles from the multi-autofocus setting, but it is dead center.

That's all you need to know it's a tiny autofocus area dead center on the screen. Let's move this a little to show you boom dark knight in focus boom rio in focus, dark knight street fighter, so it's really tiny and can't be altered. Let's make the dark knight really menacing, really big, like Ryu, is gonna get his ax kicked. Here's another thing since we're talking about focus these methods you might have already known about, but here's one that you probably don't know for it to work, though we have to set the shutter to auto. So now I can set different areas for focus and exposure. Now this looks blown out, but this is just to give you an idea of how this works.

Let's say I want to focus on Ryu and yeah, just looking for a good exposure like this again, the shutter speed has to be set to auto, because otherwise the auto exposure lock will not work. That's a bit of hidden that will allow you to really design your shots exactly the way you want them to be then to wrap up autofocus. There is another thing called tracking autofocus : we have to enable it inside the menu. Let's move the dark knight over it now, keep the street fighter in focus for the moment, let's turn it off again and there we go. This is how the focus system of the s20 now works with metering modes. You got three different ones: center weight, matrix and spot.

Shutter, speed and or the iso must be set to auto because otherwise the difference in metering doesn't affect anything because you are running fully manual. So let's go to auto for both the shutter speed and the iso, and let's check out the difference in the metering modes right now. It's set to spot spot, sits dead center in the frame, so probably where the clavicles of batman meet right where the cape begins. As you can see the background is less blown out but batman is still darker overall. I say this is the way better image because blown out backgrounds look stupid, even if they are blurred now the other option would be center weight. So spot was a tiny spot right in the middle matrix was the whole sensor and the center weight took like 30 30 to 40 percent of the sensor.

Where usually the subjects are so me personally, I'm a fan of matrix metering once again for any of these to work, shutter, speed and or iso have to be set to auto. Aspect ratios, 16 by 9 is obviously the best choice nowadays, because almost everything is 16 by 9, then again, you are doing something for the gram one. I guess it's still a viable option to shoot 4x3 um for video, obviously not there's also full which gives you like a 16 by 10 ish aspect ratio but, as you can see, going from full to 16 by nine it's going to crop into the image top and bottom again: 16 9, 4, 4 16x9, so in my book 16x9 for stills and video is the way to go next.

Stop fourth: on the left from the top self timer it's pretty self-explanatory, usually if you're really close and you're not using stabilization touching the phone, even using the volume button can create camera shake or phone shake and mess with the sharpness of the image. Remember that a two second delay can give you enough time to really prepare for the shot and make sure you are holding the phone as still as possible. Next up is the second flash option on the left from the bottom. Now let's get into the actual camera settings the actual manual settings on the right side that Pro mode offers you the reason that promo is awesome and the reason you want to use it on the right from the top first thing is exposure compensation.

Let's say in this example this is standard exposure 0.0, but you don't like the way the window is blown out in the background. You could lower the exposure until that looks all right if you wanted to blow out the background for whatever reason and make it the bright night instead of the dark knight. Obviously, the background is now completely blown out, but batman is perfectly exposed. Okay, now you can use auto white balance if you know that you are passing through different lighting situations going in and out of buildings, and being exposed to lights of different color temperatures. However, if you control the situation, you can also set this manually using a Kelvin value. I could also make this a bit happier so dark knight just caught a criminal he is.

So, apart from using white balance to match your lights to the smartphone, you could also make this an artistic choice. Even if I take my finger off the phone, then it's a good thing that they have it, because this is something they lacked in previous versions. So if you want to go to manual focus simply come to the third option on the right from the top and use your finger to set the focus, check, peaking and then you're good and you want to return to the autofocus tab manual in the top right hand corner and bam. Obviously, another cool thing when you use a smartphone is getting maximum close-up shots or super close-up shots because you're using such a tiny sensor, the close focusing limit is so tiny.

All the way down here with this little rose icon and then use either the phone or the subject to get into position in this case because it's the easier way I'm going to use the subject, this little action figure right here to perfectly position it. I will leave my finger on the focus scale set to the max close limit so I get peaking and then all I do is move the subject and use peaking to perfectly align it. So if you open close with thumb and index finger, for example, you can access the zoom and if we go to two, it's pretty much lossless because that's the tele lens and that's a pretty cool shot right like this, the capabilities of smartphones to take super close shots. You always have the option [Music] of turning on the light which looks stupid in this case.

Just wanted to mention that again and there you go, that's how you take a maximum close-up shot now picture profiles are an easy way to do. In camera, in phone looks, doesn't affect raws, just effects jpegs currently standard. That is the white balance, the temperature we can take care of the tint, green or purple. We can subdue the highlights or make them brighter, and we can do the same thing with the shadows. I would lower the saturation and it's already kind of a bleach look. Then I would check the temperature and probably make it a bit cooler. So maybe it's night time for the tint would I go green or purple [music]? I would blow them out a bit with the shadows, make them even darker.

Look now obviously shutter speed and iso are exposure tools and the main benefit of video pro mode is using them in manual mode. This is currently a bit overexposed, so I'm lowering the shutter speed to 1 125th iso 100. The lower the shutter speed the more motion blur the higher the shutter speed the less motion blur. So if you want to freeze movement, use anything up to 500, that's obviously gonna kill a lot of light, so you might have to up the iso to do so if you want blurry movement, go below one. Just to give you an idea of what the movement will look like, this is now a shutter speed of one-fourth of a second, so a quarter. So we see something and let's manually set the focus, yeah, real quick. So if I move now, let's try to get it still, [Music], ah yeah.

However, during the day they will bring in so much light that you can't even pull that off without an nd filter. If you still wanted to do that, you would have to use a clip on nd filter now, obviously, let's turn the lights back on. You can also go the other way right if there is something that moves fast and you want to freeze it without motion blur, you have to go higher with the shutter speed. Going higher with a shutter speed will cost you light. The iso will however bring in digital noise because it is a tiny sensor, so your image will be less clean. Let's focus now, I'm moving the action figure again, but this time with a shutter speed of 1 500. So I moved the action figure as you could see, but it is still sharp now that the iso has been raised, this is the digital noise.

I was talking about this grainy structure right here, so that is unfortunately a downside of using high shutter speeds, killing a lot of light and therefore having to up the iso still. This is how you would use shutter speed and iso to get the desired effects either to freeze motion or to deliberately blur it. Alright, let's kill the lights, real quick to show you the problem, okay. Let's set the shutter speed and the iso to auto, let's let the phone do its thing. This is the perfect time for using a self timer like a two second delay so that releasing or taking the still won't blur the image.

In close, it looks dreadful look at this all the freaking noise and that's because we let the phone do the exposure it set, the iso all the way up to like 1250 1600 and with a sensor that small that's going to bring in massive amounts of noise. The phone thinks you are taking this shot handheld because most people don't carry a tripod now. If you are prepared to sacrifice being able to take the shot handheld and use a tripod, here's what you can do. The perpetrator when it comes to degradation of image quality right here is obviously the iso. The exposure then again, since now we are taking the shot on a tripod and we have the added benefit of a two second delay via the self timer. We can now choose a shutter speed that is way longer than anything we could use when taking the shot.

Now let's check out the end result, that is still a bit underexposed. Let's do eight seconds and see what we can come up with very important, don't bump into the phone: don't touch the phone while it is taking the picture that would defeat the whole purpose. Alright, of course the background is blown out, but our street fighter is somewhat okay-ish, let's zoom in now, there's still a bit of noise there, because even if the iso is at 50 using very long shutter speeds like multiple seconds with such a tiny tiny sensor will result in some digital noise. If you are willing to sacrifice being able to take the shot, handheld and use a tripod, you can keep the iso all the way down and then just get the exposure.

You need to use a very long shutter speed like multiple seconds and your low light. Smartphone photography will make a massive jump in quality because the image is going to be so much cleaner than what you are used to. If you liked it, if you found it helpful, please leave a thumbs up. It's greatly appreciated any kind of comment or feedback or question is welcome. Just put it in the comments and I'll try to answer as quickly as possible. All the tech that I used in this video, although there wasn't a lot, is linked in the description, all the perks, all the good stuff in the description..

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