The Galaxy S8 Teardown - Complete Repair Video. - Galaxy User Guide

The Galaxy S8, the newest infinity display of Samsung, is displayed infinity. This thing passed my durability test with flying colors already. It is now time to see what this thing is made of and what it looks like inside. [Intro] There are no visible screws along the outside which is pretty normal for Samsung. It does make the phone slightly harder to repair, but not impossible. The process I am demonstrating is going to be pretty much the same for both the S8 and the S8 Plus. I will have those linked separately in the description. I’ve warm up the back of the phone with my heat gun or hair dryer until it’s just barely hot to touch. Then I can stick a thin metal pry tool between the metal frame and the glass of the phone.

It s only high enough to insert a playing card or business card inside, and that will help you get around this curve. If you need replacement backs or break yours during the repair, they are pretty inexpensive. After slicing through both sides, I’ll slip. My green pry tool was to hold up the glass and keep it from resealing on the phone body. The rest of the adhesive will then be easy to peel away. Remember it’s important not to go too deep inside the phone, as there is important stuff under there that can be punctured, like the wireless charging or the battery. The back glass is free. The first interesting thing we find is all the warnings on the battery. You got normal stuff like don't burn, don't puncture, avoid extreme temperatures.

Like, I’m not a dog person, but I. DON’T advocate pet discrimination. I don’t really understand the rules and Samsung really. There are 14 screws held to the first layer of the guts. The circley thing is the wireless chargeable cord. We cut open one of these on the What’s Inside YouTube channel. The copper wires will coil to receive power through inductance and then pass that power through the battery into these pins on the motherboard. Pretty sweet technology. Apple will probably invent this technology in the future for one of their next iPhones. So, that’s something for iPhone users to look forward to. The battery disconnects easily from the motherboard, but there are no magic pull tabs underneath like we’ve seen on some other phones, so it’s time to use brute force.

I’ll use the rounded end of my metal, rip a knife, taking extreme care not to slice or to puncture. I also took special care not to use a dog at any point during this procedure. Samsung has put this in line since that is one of the battery requirements of Samsung. The battery does look pretty cool. It has a 3000 milliamp capacity, and it has even a see-through area up the top for the protection circuit. It’s even cooler that the inside of the phone is the same color as the outside – like what we saw with the red iPhone that I took apart a few weeks ago. It has a little water damage indicator down at the bottom. It still has those golden contact points where it receives power and signal from the phone. I'll start disconnecting the wire cables at the bottom.

The screen ribbon of the motherboard unravels like a little Lego from the side of it. Afterwards I will move up to the front sensor array ribbon cable and the front camera ribbon. And then, you know, there was the SIM card tray that I should have removed before we started. At the base of the motherboard there is a Lego connector for the charging port, but it’s on the underside of the board, making things a little more complicated than it should be. I’ll give you a better view in a second. Now that the motherboard is out, we have the Samsung heat pipe in plastic. This helps keep the process cool because copper is a better conductor of heat than aluminum is. The thermal transfer away from the process is more efficient than with copper.

The rear 12 megapixel camera has its own Lego-like connection on the motherboard. I’ll take off the camera and push it through. This is certainly replaceable. Just for kicks and giggles I’ll push out the front camera also. This little guy is attached to the iris scanner. Camera, you can see that the motion is inside the frame. This is called OIS or optical image. The Iris scanner is solid on the front camera and normally the front camera is also solid, but this one has movement. Samsung didn’t advertise having stable on this front camera, but it looks like they may have played around with the idea of adding it. OIS takes the image quality to the next level, so it would be pretty awesome if they did.

I’ll zip this front camera back into the frame and clip the rear camera back in place. Give a look at this speaker for the ear. Remember that during my durability test I complained that the grill size was way smaller on the new S8 than it was on the old S8. It turns out the internal speakers are pretty much the same. If anything, the S8 might even be a little bit larger of a speaker, so no worries there. The speaker does sit a little lower than the actual earpiece slot, The sound comes out of the hole in the front. This sensor array on the front is all connected with this ribbon. And the volume and Bixby buttons are all connected by these golden contacts. The circular vibrator has its own two contact points.

The power button is built in the same way – two little pads stand up against the motherboard. The headphone jack is easily replaceable, just one tiny screw to hold it in place. It has the same little Lego style, ribbon and connector, that connects it with the charging port. You can see the little rubber seal around the headphone jack to help keep water out. There are 5 more screws to secure the cable to the frame. Incredible nice that we don’t have the capacitive front button reach around that we saw in the Galaxy S6-, that was a nightmare. It has the USBC port and the little microphone on the side. This phone is actually pretty easy to work on. Once you get inside the glued back glass.

From the exterior, you can see that there is metal around the edge of the phone but now that the guts are taken out and internals of the S8 exposed we can see that it is the same piece of metal throughout the entire device, which explains the rigidity of the phone fully. There is a little slot in the frame for the screen ribbon to poke through. Replacing a broken display is not cheap or easy. Two, the curved AZOLLED panels are pretty expensive. Have the current pricing of the video for you linked in the description. The old display is essentially sacrificed in the removal process. It is heated and removed, similar to how we did the back panel, fed the new screen band through the metal frame of the phone and a clop down into place.

If you are interested in seeing the exact process, this is done on the Galaxy S7 teardown. And I’ll talk about a few ways to protect your phone towards the end of the video. Charge port gets tucked back into place along with the headphone jack. This is a pretty good use of space, Samsung. There are six screws holding all the components down. Those round wires then find their way along the metal frame. The charging port is connected at the base of the motherboard, which is normal for Samsung, but to the rest of us strange. I’ll plug that in before putting the rest of the motherboard in place and making sure there are no ribbons or connections stuck underneath the board, as it goes.

I’ll clip the front sensor, array, and then the front camera and the iris scanner There are those 3 signals down to the bottom of the motherboard. The circular heads are pretty fragile so you should be gentle when pressing them in place. The screen ribbon finally snaps like a small Lego in place. It’s easier to snap the plastic from the bottom to the metal frame first. The last thing we plug in is the battery. Normally you want to put adhesive under the battery also. At this point, ideally, you should definitely not turn your phone on but I kind of want to show you something cool so I am going to do it.

Remember the camera stabilization I spoke about earlier? Camera is currently turned on, and the phone hardware is stabilizing the camera image physically to compensate for the shakiness or movement of my hands. I check the front camera but it doesn’t look like there is any sort of movement or stabilization in the lens. Samsung might have considered this on the front '' OIS. Camera is very definitely not enabled at the moment. Finally I can clip in the fingerprint scanner? This is a tedious process that reminds me of the iPhone 5s a lot. Possibly I could have popped the fingerprint scanner out of the back glass and positioned it on the inside, but I wanted to keep that seal as tight as possible with the back glass, and my green tool worked fine.

The best repair is the one you don't have to do. The best way to keep your phone from breaking in the future is to protect it with a case or skin. A naked phone is just asking for trouble. A skin like that you see here from dbrand, goes a long way to adding grip, keeping your phone scratch-free and adding a raised surface around the camera lens for a little extra protection. I will post a link in the description for you. And thank you to Dbrand for supporting this video. It will save people money when they break their phones in the future. You want to check out a few other projects. I work on Instagram and Twitter and have all my behind the scenes work..

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