Galaxy S10 S20 Display Glass only replace glass repair. - Galaxy User Guide

I want to show you what you can do if your galaxy is broken like in this case s, 10 s, 10 plus 120 s, 8 s, 9 s, 10. If the display is intact, no spots has no streaks or other impairments, because if you do this and already have streaks or spots, it is very likely that the display is damaged more severely and then does not function again. Also you have to buy a new one for the repair, I use, among other things, a 30 in 1 set you can buy for the bonding i use a uv glue, the tsv 1000 tips, 1000 better said, and here a normal pane of glass. If you are happy to carry out this repair you should also get the hot plate for the beginning. You don't actually need the hotplate, but later on to change the glass you definitely need the hotplate here and has a packing function.

So we can later use the glass from the OD panel trend and now the heating plate at the beginning to soften the clarification on the back and thus loosen the adhesive and then open everything. Now, leave the whole thing for a moment until it is so warm that you can just touch it. It is important that you should not heat the device under any circumstances, as long as the whole thing is hot enough. You should put on goggles then carefully pull the scalpel a piece of rain on the side between the back cover and the frame and then insert the 30 in 1 plastic chip, repair, kit included and then carefully and slowly detach the back of the frame with this. If the work is too much force for me, you can damage the back cover too quickly.

So a second time it is better to heat it up and then you should be able to get the back side detached here without any problems as soon as we are completely outside, with the chip, we can remove the becker war is important if you have a different device, if you have an s9 or 18 for example, you also have this fingerprint sensor. In this case I got the back cover perfectly out to make sure the original are still intact. That means we don’t need to remove the back renew, and then we can heat something up and use it later to gluing. That was lagging, but let's put it aside now, let's take the six and insert a screwdriver and now unscrew all the screws.

Of course you need it, but only if you carry out the repair opener once we loosened all the screws we'll use now replace the calf here on the side and then remove the upper part also. The lower part usually comes down at the same time then put it on the whole thing to the side. Another length so be careful, are only three voices next to your next step, the classic save first pull the battery connection and then disconnect the other flex cable connection. So we take a simple one and remove the sim card or slot here at the top and pull it out. We can then remove the circuit board in the next step. In this step I would also recommend you to put an anti-static cable on.

It's connected to the contacts or honours of the socket and merely prevents me from static discharge, i.e. those small hits that you get from cushions. And if you touch someone not transferred to the circuit board by gently levering, we can now get the circuit board in the lower area as well to remove small components, so mostly already removed almost everything we have to remove the battery, so that we can then start with the display or what we first do to prepare the display. Now we have to remove the display and pack the battery out as I said, then in the next step we lift a section under the frame with the display when the whole thing is warm enough. After this we will lift the battery carefully when it is warm enough, then we can remove the battery and put it aside.

Now, adjust this silicone mat so the normal league looks through the display. It's getting a little louder now so you will not understand me so well anymore. Basically the whole thing works, but now so much so that I use isopropanol very often and then stand carefully at them with an extremely thin piece of plastic paper here go into it, you can cut them out of the packaging. You have to be a little careful now because that is where the Flex cables are now, lots of effort I too good, as it goes to loosen the glue in the lower area I am trying to loosen some of the glass in advance.

Here you can also put some isopropanol on it simply because I'm worried about the flex cables running in this area that the glass could somehow press the flex cable from the display and thus completely destroy the display and so on here comes some isopro panol and then I carefully remove a part of the glass here. It is now in the case, or it is now like that with the flex coffee, see for example so that they are in the lower area. The contacts are called here, so that you can see a picture of what a display looks from behind so that you actually have Flex cables up there. Work more of this group and remove the glue as best you can in advance to prevent something from loosing, as soon as you solved it.

You can now see the fingerprint sensor through, so when the display is removed, we will definitely test it now. First of all whether everything is functional we take the frame and the battery on the circuit board and then start the device, and if everything went well, the whole thing looks like it did. For me, the same method works as I said for all Samsung galaxy devices. It is very time-consuming but is now doable and we will try to determine whether the touchscreen actually works. The display is still fully functional like no spots or streaks, and then we can turn the device off again. Facts would then be displayed off circuit board next to us then put the display back into front of you and put it back on the wooden panel.

You can see that the neck area is an essential function, and it is definitely very important if you wanted to carry out this repair. It comes back to the hot plate smoke and now we carefully use a trimming wheel between the panel and the glass pane. Now I sit on the edge, put something on with a very thin piece of plastic, and try to get under the display between the glass and the panel now. The display, now use carefully a piece of molybdenum to remove the glass pane.

It should really be left a day before, so I had now left a day and will only start the cleaning now simply because we solved the display with isopropanol en and if you start too soon, it can happen that the conductor tracks in the lower area have no longer contact with the panel and that the panel is also unusable so leave it a day after removing it from the frame and then continue to work around the glue the next day to remove it from the display. It is now completed here, especially on the back side, and is important to clean here so that the new adhesive also helps to seal properly. Now that we can test it again and see if it is now functional, we do not necessarily need to install it in the housing is, of course, easier.

If everything went well it should look like it can then we test it briefly with me, in touch and then we'll reinstall the display, first the frame and then we will glue the glass pane in. If you drop a little dollar here and the poster should, then it is better to leave the device for a while or that is a sign that the cleaner has cured. I use a double-sided adhesive tape and now apply it completely to the frame. Is it possible for you to have the frame cleaned with alcohol so that the glue also holds really well because it has to hold the display properly later on? Here you have to use different glue in the areas that are a bit narrower and I will get it now for the next step.

Then we can remove all the protective strips of adhesive, then in the next step the display and that is obviously important now that there's no dirt here and that things like overlapping don't occur here at all, so that somehow the coating survives in the bottom area, because that could of course block the adhesive that first in the upper area of the camera hole and then low the display properly. It is only important to press the display firmly in the middle area.

You should not exert so much pressure, because it can happen that the battery recedes if I push it through it afterwards and it looks really stupid because it is very flexible and then presses into every small crack, and then you have even more blatant ripple effects than you have already when you stick it on with a sticker. I usually glue the whole thing together using the pressing method if you use the device when I send it in. But if you trust yourself to be able to repair it, you have to do it this way, because a US machine like this just costs a little bit a few thousand euros. So when we clean all of it, I’ll take it in the next step a microfiber cloth that is also now here to really clean every crumb which is still here.

If we don't want to have any crumbs underneath later that make the picture worse then it looks ugly, it's clear and that I now put the microfiber cloth on top and it is then down from top to bottom. You can do it perfectly so that not a single crumb can be seen underneath and it works so that it gets the green light as simple as possible. So that's why I was able to link it, and then you can look at it so I put it on and now gently and slowly down with the microfiber cloth from top to bottom nd. There is the vorluca adhesive, check again that there are no green ones on it and then I apply a bone shape in the corners from above. In the upper area we put it carefully on and then in the lower region.

If it doesn t work the first time, then just pull off the glass pane and clean everything, and then we continue until the bone is completely glued, of course, without bubbles, then we'll pull it off the foil and now I just have to let the whole thing go for this and now we read this absorption - strength here. You can of course support a little now but I wouldn’t do that much because it can also happen that you get irregularities in the height of the glue and that’s what you want to avoid it so that the whole thing looks like it does for me, so that mainly goes well. We can now turn on the uv and start gluing up. Everybody now press out air bubbles, maybe there are still there and then have to put them under the Uv halogen lamp to 23.

As soon as the whole thing has hardened, we take the cleaner back and clean the entire device, a completely around [music]. When then the display is finished and we can deinstall it like this, I have now cleaned the areas such as the earpiece and in the lower area of the loudspeaker and headphone connection. Using a high-pressure cleaner and tol, every is the fastest way to get the adhesive residue out of the gaps in th. First step we take the m inboard again, the circuit board and put the whole thing on, including the lcd on the display or have the display at night, then connect. The circuit board then connect the battery and test again whether everything works.

Press down and restart the cell phone and if the whole thing looks like it does to me, everything works successfully and you have successfully prepared the display as soon as the device permits it. I would certainly recommend to test everything completely again if the touch screen works anywhere and then the whole device would be just dismantled. I hope you liked the repair or the video, and yes, you just have to reassemble the device in the end. In this case, I will not do that again because we already filmed how the device is disassembled in the end, and that must be easy..

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